C&L Summer Vacation Planner--See Detroit!
Progressives have rightfully mourned the recent fate of New Orleans--a poor, predominately black city with a spectacular history that has been failed by our country over and over again.
I just returned from work and play in a city we hear less about, but it shares a lot in common with New Orleans--Detroit. AKA Motown, The 313, Rock City, The D. Detroit City, as the song goes, ain't nothin' to f with.
Most people react to Detroit the same way when they see it for the first time--something along the lines of "holy sh*t." It's frequently compared to a Third World country, with enormous vacant auto plants and many, many desperate people. It's a very dramatic landscape.
The Big 3 took what they needed from Detroit, and what they left behind is...how you say...challenging. There is tremendous poverty, hopelessness, crime, and violence.
But there is so much to love in Detroit. No, really.
I'm not a big Techno expert or anything, but the documentary above captures what I have grown to love about that place--it's rough, it's deprived and sometimes depraved, but out of much blight has risen one of the coolest creative scenes I've ever seen.
Seriously. If you're in the midwest, consider going to Detroit to see the sights this summer. There is remarkable stuff going on in Detroit, wonderful people...and they could definitely use the money. So come, won't you? I'll meet you just after the "continue reading" button.
Put down the pepper spray, we'll be fine. Probly.
Detroit is a city with a very palpable sense of history, informing the day-to-day lives its residents.
This is partially because Detroit played such a huge role in the development of this country. And it’s partially a sense of “OH SH*T, THIS CAN’T BE IT.” History, and the future, feel very much alive in Detroit because it’s got to get better than this.
Detroit’s been screwed over and over again by corporate masters that had no sense of responsibility to the community. It’s been screwed by corrupt politicians and unspeakably bad urban planning. And racism. And Reagan-era policies…oh, you know how this story goes. On to the tour.
If you'd like to spend time in a magnificent, historical joint that is as much metaphor as structure, a first stop in Detroit should be Michigan Central Station.
We're not allowed to go inside, that would be trespassing. But, this is Detroit. So once we're inside, we discover a forgotten treasure left to rust. It's a reminder that we were once a country that built grand public institutions for the common good--in this case providing transportation services--and we all benefitted. Now, as with so many of our country's public institutions, it's a big beautiful mess. Like much of Detroit, it's a glimpse into our country's collective potential future.
So what are the new institutions, created for the public? Well, for contemporary transportation services, head downtown where you encounter one of the greatest practical jokes ever created in the name of the public—The People Mover!
There are only two things wrong with the title "People Mover." One, there are never any "people" on it. This is because, while it "moves," it doesn't "f*cking go anywhere that anyone wants to go." It is a virtually worthless monorail that goes between deserted buildings downtown. That's it.
Luckily, we have footage of the meeting that created this disaster. Watch and judge. Accountability, thy name is Detroit.
While the breakdown of public services has crippled this city in a lot of ways, it has created pockets of community and creativity that are wonders to behold.
The Heidelberg Project is in the heart of a bleak area that is being transformed into a massive public art project. It’s community transformation as artwork, an artist’s attempt to his environment on a truly enormous scale. It’s like driving through the inside of his beautiful, weird mind.
Plus, high school kids on mushrooms hang out there. And high school kids on mushrooms are hilarious.
Speaking of public art, the Packard plant is like nothing you’ve ever seen. It’s like a many-acres-across sculpture about the apocalypse, oxidation, and disintegrating city tax revenues. And it’s recently been made all the grander by that badass Banksy, as this cool Kos diary explains. The free self-tour is available 24/7--but I recommend daytime.
To many, summertime in Detroit means Belle Isle. Belle Isle is beautiful, and crazy in that Detroit way. I have fond memories of a sunset picnic after a gig, having a lovely time, eating, drinking...and leaving to the sound of gunfire. (Sundown is a great time to end your day at Belle Isle). But go, bring the kids, it’s nice in the daytime.
And music! Detroit didn’t invent modern music, it invented modern music that doesn’t suck.
There are Motown tours aplenty and they’re worth seeing, but you shouldn’t miss the Grande Ballroom, where John Coltrane, MC5, Iggy and The Stooges, and many others played regularly. Or The Music Institute, where they invented techno. And Eminem tours are available if you’re so inclined—or just ask a local, pretty much everyone has (or, y’know, claims to have) a story about him.
Seeing Detroit for a music fan is like seeing Rome if you’re a imperialism fan. It’s the ruins of where they perfected the form.
And music is happening here and now. They have great bands playing nearly every night at Magic Stick, Fillmore, and Baker's Keyboard Lounge. Catch an early act, then head to Hamtramck to finish the night.
Hamtramck is a weird beast—it’s a small city nestled right in the heart of Detroit. Filled to the brim with immigrants of every kind, it’s home to Planet Ant, producing terrific original plays, improv, and film nightly. Once home to the early gigs of no-account flash in the pans music acts like the White Stripes, as a theater it’s groomed a remarkable number of TV and film actors in its modest space. Check out a show.
Finish up in a truly local bar—Seven Brothers, a great Bukowski-esque location that attracts musicians, actors, artists, locals, and has more languages spoken therein than the United Nations. Ask George, the Macedonian owner, for a shot of something from his homeland. You'll have more Macedonian hard liquor options at your disposal than any bar you've ever been to. I promise.
And settle back, you will wind up in a conversation. Enjoy being surrounded by folks who are literally from everywhere there are people.
Enjoy the realest* place you’ve ever been, with the realest folks you’ve ever met.
And enjoy the hospitality of a city that is really, really, reeeeeeally glad to have you there. Have a big ol cup of Detroit, won’t you?
*If this sentence upsets you because you don't think "realest" is a word, don't go to Detroit.
(Of course, this is one man’s idea of a cool day in Detroit. Please feel free to add your own attractions in the comments).
Who sold us this NAFTA is good for our economy bullshit and how did they get away with it?
"Great minds discuss ideas; average minds discuss events; small minds discuss people." ~ Eleanor Roosevelt
A lot of the plants had already moved out to the 'burbs, out-state, or out of the state.
Don't try to confuse the issue with half-truths and gorilla dust.
but NAFTA has nothing to do with this problem or any of your other problems. I'm a Canadian and I can assure you we didn't get "your jobs". Our unemployment rates are the same as yours usually if not higher and the Mexicans streaming across the border sure didn't get them. NAFTA is the bete noir of the uninformed.
Hasa Diga Eebowai
NAFTA was all about moving large sums of money around to avoid taxation.
'Talk to the hand'
The manufacturing jobs were already disappearing during Detroit's hellish recession of the 1970s. NAFTA just took away all the white collar jobs that were left.
I want to correct a point that changes my comment:
should have read "wealth" instead of money..... most money is taxable...large sums of wealth are now beyond taxation.
Sort of makes the term "money" obsolete.....fungible assets is the new money.
'Talk to the hand'
Canadians didn't get "our" jobs after NAFTA.
Mexicans did, when all the "American" corporations moved there.
Until the WTO.
Then all the "American" corporations pulled out of Mexico.
Went to China.
Leaving a big whistling empty here and in Mexico.
And it won't be long before those jobs leave China.
Chinese workers demanding higher wages.
Chinese factories moving to Bangladesh.
Race to the bottom!!
When will government of the people, by the politicians, for the corporations perish from this Earth?
Not soon enough!
is not a member of NAFTA.
Hasa Diga Eebowai
NAFTA is a scapegoat. A distraction.
Money, dollars, moving offshore - outside of the U.S., tax free.
THAT's the story....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-x1_4hEhxGU
Diabolus est Deus Inversus
...and the backstory of that character (a fiction inside of a fiction), this movie was set in Chicago.
Don't try to confuse the issue with half-truths and gorilla dust.
I know that you wrote a largely optimistic piece here, but I've got to point this out: There are NO chain grocery stores inside the city limits of Detroit. No Krogers, Farmer Jacks, Meijer's, Spartan Stores, Wal-Mart...Nothing. Single store mom & pops don't have purchasing power, so if someone inside the city can't afford to travel to the 'burbs, they pay higher prices in the city. That's a damned shame.
Don't try to confuse the issue with half-truths and gorilla dust.
If you get to Hamtramck, find the polish restaurants. They're outstanding. And pick up some Kowalski sausage, fresh is my favorite.
Tiger Stadium (Comerica) is great, and they are winning!
Other than the current unemployment rate, the Detroit suburbs are like anywhere and everywhere else.
Michigan is a great vacation state there are 300 pristine golf courses and miles and miles of oil free beaches on the great lakes.
A true value for the few dollars you have to spend from the upper peninsula all the way down and God knows those people have had it rough since the crash in 1982 and do not forget all the great fishing.
I just had to. \m/(^-^)\m/
Long Live Detroit!
America nurtured and fed our corporations...till they grew big and strong.
And then they moved out on their own.
I guess that makes us Americans "empty nesters"?
audit-prosecute-incarcerate
Detroit was in bad shape long before NAFTA and such. There are still burned out buildings standing that got that way in the 1967 riots. There was plenty of time between the riots and WTO/NAFTA treaties to deal with it, but nothing happened.
Don't try to confuse the issue with half-truths and gorilla dust.
True.
yeah, Detroit has been hurting since the early 70's.
(Auto manufacturers were a "deserving victim" of globalism)...even back then.
they were deserving because they didn't compete well with imported cars.
audit-prosecute-incarcerate
They couldn't compete because of aging infrastructure
And apparently it's "bad" to invest in infrastructure.
Diabolus est Deus Inversus
You have to admit that the Renaissance Center was a last gasp effort of those same evil "coporatists" to save downtown Detroit. Now it's the head office of GM. So I guess they didn't take the money and run.
Hasa Diga Eebowai
IIRC, the RenCen came before the JLA which came before the People Mover.
IMO, the Ilitches have done a good job attracting people to their neighborhood downtown: Their Fox Theater, Hockeytown Cafe, Comerica Park and Greektown Casino are all within a few blocks of each other.
Don't try to confuse the issue with half-truths and gorilla dust.
It's "all" about what did, or did not happen, after the riots.
Affected areas speak for itself....
And teabaggers support it
They call it "free-market."
Diabolus est Deus Inversus
...that we haven't had true free markets in this country for 97 years.
audit-prosecute-incarcerate
And it's policies like those 98 years ago that allow corporations to movie to where they don't have to provide a liveable wage.
Either that or just get rid of the laborer all together through automation.
Diabolus est Deus Inversus
All the corporations leave America...
All tariffs and taxes eliminated...
...while global corporations continue to contribute to our political process.
audit-prosecute-incarcerate
Good point!
If I were a psychopath, I would join the republican party, and get in on the gravy train taking the Teabircher morons to the cleaners.
who are not deliberately simplistic and/or willfully ignorant know that "true free markets" are a fairy tale, anywhere and any time.
Be as you wish to seem
concur.
audit-prosecute-incarcerate
Then why did you state a preference for it,
And claim it existed up to 98 years ago?
Diabolus est Deus Inversus
...while it was actually very good and very interesting. Progressive house is like a hybrid of techno, house and trance. Chicago is given credit for the birth of house music. And it is true that Detroit is where techno had it's earliest roots. Trance came about in Europe.
Poor Detroit, I don't know much but I can't say it's high on my list of places I'd like to visit. My gut tells me that it's the US' biggest ghost town. Crime. An eye sore. Poverty. Am I wrong?
Hitsville, USA?
Hasa Diga Eebowai
I agree - I grew up in Detroit and attended Wayne State University there, and the Motown Museum is a great place to see and feel the history of Motown. There is a lot to do in Detroit; the Detroit Institute of Arts, Greenfield Village, Henry Ford Museum, the Vernors plant, great restaurants, sports, lots of good music, and even casinos for those who like to gamble. As for safety, as long as you use common sense you shouldn't have a problem. If you want to see some of the lesser known good stuff in Michigan, check out utrmichigan.com
They aired it earlier this year and I was very moved by this documentary. There's indeed much to love about the city. I never visited it but I'm very curious.
Morte detroit love is to be found here.
Dunno why this post was deleted. Seems the robot editing is a bit stiff...
- but this post made me think of a train trip I took from Toronto to New York City in 1980. The Amtrak route went through upstate NY to Albany, then south along the Hudson. I remember miles and miles of abandoned factories, slums and urban blight - it seemed to go on forever.
The countryside was green and bucolic, but in Niagara Falls, Buffalo, Rochester the sense of decay was really striking. The industrial area of Rochester looked like an old war zone. For the first time I understood what the term 'rust belt' meant. I had never seen anything like it in Canada.
I wonder what this region looks like now.
We're nation-building in Iraq and Afghanistan!!
Isn't it great!
USA! USA! USA!
When will government of the people, by the politicians, for the corporations perish from this Earth?
Not soon enough!
It is sad. I remember as a kid going to the 'road show' movies at the Fox Theater, staying at the Statler Hotel, shopping at Hudsons' huge downtown store, learning about the joys of corned beef at Brother's Deli, watching musicals at the Fisher Theater and hot fudge cream puffs at Saunders restaurant. It was less than 50 years ago.
Hudson's.
Sanders sundaes.
Fisher, Statler, Book Cadillac, Cobo Hall, Olympia, Top of the Ponch....
a great american pastime, making crap smell and look good
the French did it first with a big assist from the eyeties, unless you subscribe to the view that the Chinese did everything first.
Be as you wish to seem
Interesting watching Requiem for Detroit while sitting in the middle of Detroit. Been here for seven years and find it both fascinating/wonderful and exasperatingly frustrating. We had out-of-towners here last week and they had a good time.
Next up--our home and garden tour, right here in Detroit!
http://udcatour.com/
http://www.udcaonline.com/
I was born in Detroit. Left when I was three. Came back as a youngster for junior high and high school. Mid to late sixties into the very early seventies. It was heading downhill then. Went in the service. Went back infrequently on leave and the deterioration seemed to be accelerating. Didn't go back for about twenty years and was shocked at what had happened. I chalk it up to the absolutely corrupt leadership of Coleman Young for the most part. He was an embarrassment to the Democratic party in Michigan.
I visited Detroit for Easter this year...
Sadly the area where I used to run up and down the sidewalks in the summertime as a kid on a visit with my grandma has too many burned out homes, and too many vacant lots where relatives' homes used to stand. The vacant lots grew wild grass and weeds like the land trying to heal itself after a brushfire caused by a lightning strike. When I roamed the sidewalks as a child, they were cracked and a challenge to traverse due to the large oak trees whose roots strained at the joints in the concrete, lifting the cement like a teepee. But we rode bikes and ran and walked down to the neighborhood A and P market. The old oak trees were mostly gone now, but a few remained, a testament to the changes that the neighborhood had endured. My grandma's home was still there but not as neat or tidy as it once was, but it was well cared for by the current owners except maybe the porch which could have used a new coat of paint. The porch used to be where family would gather on cool summer nights watching the flicker of the fireflies and talking with the neighbors. It was a different time- a time before people went indoors to watch the flickering of the TV instead.
The Catholic Church that used to conduct Sunday mass in Latin was still standing on the corner, but now it was a house of worship for some other faith. The main road leading to my grandma's house was being repaved and was torn up, and some streets fared better than others. Some burned out homes and businesses still stood, marking a different time with today's desperation. The neighborhood was made up of working class people. Ethnicity of Eastern Europeans. Many worked at the car factories but not all, some were plumbers, and painters, and milkmen from the days when the dairy still delivered fresh milk in bottles and butter to your home.
My Dad still lives in Detroit, a different area than the old neighborhood, but much like the one that my grandma used to live in, and not far from the fancy homes in Grosse Point. It's comforting, in a way, to visit his small two bedroom home and see the past. His neighbors are more diverse now than my grandma's ever was, but that's ok. They still seem like middle class folks, just trying to make ends meet and dreaming of a better life for their kids...
Only when the last tree has died
and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught
will we realize we cannot eat money.
I lived in Detroit is the mid-late 80's. I liked it a lot and still visit when I can. It's a great city.
Also Birmingham (suburb) is a beautiful place.
And across the river in Windsor are some of the best titty bars in the world.
But damn it was kinda dangerous back then. I distinctly remember in 1985 that 42,000 cars were stolen. Over 100 per day.
Eat at THE Original Pancake House. But go early. There are no reservations and you may need to wait until a table opens up. Best Breakfast in town.
A visit to watch the Detroit Tigers is always fun. And Hockeytown is a good place to visit.
And the Detroit Science Center was fun.
You can take a riverboat ride downtown and there used to be an old trolley that you could ride for fun as well.
And a visit to Detroit isn't complete without a visit to Greenfield Village and the Henry Ford Museum or a visit to the factory to watch them build Ford trucks.
Only when the last tree has died
and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught
will we realize we cannot eat money.
that the movie RoboCop would be so prescient? Thankfully, there is no real life Omni Consumer Products. Srsly, Detroit is an American icon city and we need it to be healthy and productive.
or at least they are trying to be.
Before the 67' riots, Detroit was a very different place. Many homes that looked like Clint Eastwoods in Gran Torino - and were very well taken care of, have been abandoned or burned down over the years. The neglect of spotless heighborhoods I use to visit as a kid is deplorable.
I also agree that Coleman Young had a lot to do with many of the problems. When he took office, 83% of all business transactions in Michigan somehow went through the city of Detroit. When he left office 20 years later, that number was 13%.
Personally, I understood Coleman's anger to the racism in Detroit when he took office. it was a very segregated city for a northern town.
Unfortunately, he embraced vindictiveness, instead of working with the white who had the money, and they just took their ball to play in the suburbs. sad - and stupid.
If I were a psychopath, I would join the republican party, and get in on the gravy train taking the Teabircher morons to the cleaners.
Astute observation!
I live in Toledo, Ohio but have worked in and around the Detroit area for almost 20 years. It's a great place with a lot hidden jewels and beautiful people. I'm a bit offended by the "mace" comment since there are places in any big city that you just don't go to with out knowing someone from that area but I don't mind much we have thick skins around here.
And now for one of my favorite lesser known Detroit treasures. I think it highlights the Gothic (in the true sense of the word, not some depressed teenager sense) beauty of the city.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bOizqYTGDeU
I also grew up in Toledo but had the distinct pleasure of working in Detroit during the mid 80's. It is gritty and raw but after time that aspect becomes a major reason why she is great. I worked near the Ford Rouge plant and drank in every dive surrounding the area. Spending a night in the bleachers at Tiger Stadium is all you need to know about the people who live there. I suppose the mantra is "Yes, it is a shit hole but it's our shit hole, that's why we love it". It's a damn shame what has happened to Detroit but the people who live there are also gritty and raw. They are also resilient and as bad as things look now, don't write Detroit off quite yet.
If you want to hear some incisive, excellent commentary about Detroit, from people who live there, listen to these three shows. Amy speaks with Grace Lee Boggs, a Detroit civil rights institution in her own right (90 years old) as well as speaking with the Pres. of the UAW and other Detroiter's. She also is there for the Social Forum, where thousands of participants showed up. The part I liked best was the end of the June 22nd show, where she is standing at the former Packard building, which closed in the 50's. Someone there is giving her a history lesson on the building, its quite interesting.
Radix Omnium Malorum Avaritia
As a native Detroiter, I have watched the decline of the city with a tear in my eye. I lived there the first 17 years of my life and one of the joys of my teen years was moving equipment on- and offstage at The Grande Ballroom.
It's hard to pinpoint exactly how, where, and when it all went so wrong, but I'll start with the Detroit riot and then add other observations.
OH! You think I'm talking about the '67 riot. No, not that one.
If you have any sense of history you might be thinking of the 1943 riot, when an unfounded rumour that a Black man raped a White woman caused Whites to rampage against Blacks. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Detroit_Race_Rio...)
But I'm not talking about THAT riot either. I'm talking about the FIRST Detroit riot in 1863. Whites were pissed off at this little thing that came out of Washington called The Emancipation Proclamation. They were determined to show Blacks who was really in charge.
At that time Detroit did not have a constabulary and it was quickly decided to create a police force, which was tasked to keep the Blacks in line. Some things never change.
In between the 1863 and 1943 riots was the incident in 1925 when a White mob terrorized Black doctor Ossian Sweet, who had recently moved into the wrong neighbourhood. In the ensuing violence a White man was killed and Sweet was charged with murder. Clarence Darrow managed to win the doctor a hung jury.
All this to say that race relations, or lack thereof, has always been at the bottom of Detroit's problems.
According to the book "Sundown Towns" by James Loewen, Detroit was always one of the most segregated cities in all of America. (Read the book. It's amazing and shows why American cities look the way they do and why the country still hasn't solved The Race Problem. http://sundown.afro.illinois.edu/sundowntowns...)
After the 1967 riots the "White Flight" to the suburbs, which had already started in the late '50s, accelerated like crazy. When I was growing up in Detroit it was 'Merka's 5th most populous city with a population of about 1.8 million people. (I am going by memory for that figure.) Today it is the 11th most populous with half the number of people from its heyday, or 910,000 (according to the Wiki Wacky Woo).
What this managed to do is depress the tax rate. There was just not the money to deal with crumbling infrastructure and the loss of jobs when the automakers hit the highway. This allowed the city to rot from the downtown core outwards.
But make no mistake: It was all about race relations, or lack thereof.
I was recently back in Motown. Every time I visit I go back to my old neighbourhood (Greenfield & 8 Mile, for those who care). Over the 40 years since I've been gone I Have watched that neighbourhood slowly deteriorate. First it was the odd house here and there that was either boarded up, burned out, or was just a hole in the ground where a house once stood. However, each visit had more houses like this. On my most recent visit (on my birthday, oddly enough) I drove around the neighbourhood crying. It has gone past the tipping point. It is the worst blight I have ever seen in an American city in an area that used to be upper middle class. I'm not talking about the downtown area that everybody knows about. These were small post war houses that went up almost overnight to house all those returning soldiers. Now it appears to these eyes totally beyond repair, which is why they cried.
Everything that went wrong with Detroit has to do with race, and Detroit is a microcosm of everything wrong with America. It has always been about race. And, sadly, it appears it will always be about race.
With all my love,
Aunty Em
http://www.newshounds.us/auntys_antics/
Thanks for this piece, Andy. I really enjoyed the virtual tour. I would love to see the Art Deco.
I hope that they're successful in restoring Michigan Central Station. As I watched the video, minus the sound, I could imagine the ghosts of folks in the past bustling through the station. The scenes of joyous reunions, and tearful departures that must have transpired there...
"When profit comes up against morality, it's rare that profit loses."~Shirley Chisholm
A good virtual tour is aka the ruins of Detroit tour. As many commentators point out, Detroit's problems go back to well before the 80s and were evident even in the fifties. Note that the Packard plant was never repurposed and it shut down in the fifties. Anyway, the tour is visually striking and has lots of good information.
My Dad was a Detroit cop for twenty six years. He was at the old Third Precinct in the twenties and thirties. It was at Hunt, Gratiot, and Hastings Streets. It was called "Black Bottom" then. Boy, the stories he'd tell. Prohibition, the Purple Gang, Joe Louis, working vice. He loved Detroit and would be heartbroken to see what has become of it. None of my family lives in the area anymore. Everyone gradually left in the seventies and eighties. My sister lived in Windsor for almost forty years. I went back there to visit her about twenty years ago. She picked me up in Detroit and we drove down Woodward avenue on a Sunday afternoon. It was deserted. We went through the tunnel over to Windsor. What a shock - there were people everywhere - out on sidewalk cafes, in the parks, having a good time. The night time showed the greatest contrast however, Detroit's skyline was dark, the buildings had very little in the way of lights. Eerie. Like a Potemkin village.
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